How to Grow Wisteria
How to grow Wisteria
Wisteria is a deciduous twining climbing plant which will flower for several weeks and many varieties carry a lovely scent. A Wisteria in bloom is a magnificent sight with lovely trailing scented blooms which are either blue, purple, pink or white. Ideally Wisteria is best suited to and traditionally grown up a south facing wall. Wisteria rewards well, a beautiful climber flowering between April and June. If Wisteria is growing well and happy in its spot, you may also get a second flush of weaker flowers in late summer around August time. I find this causes a bit of a pruning dilemma as those flowers can be where you want to prune and I hate to cut them off. Delaying pruning by a couple of weeks will make no difference in the long term .
Wisteria is vigorous growing up to 9 meters (30ft) which means it needs a large space. Its not self supporting and requires a framework to grow up. Although Wisteria grows well in sun, and in full sun, it will also tolerate light shade. The downside is that Wisteria is a demanding climbing plant to grow and requires attention which makes it a red wheelbarrow plant.
Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year, (summer and Winter) to ensure it flowers consistently each year. As the Wisteria matures it grows further up the wall, ladders are needed for pruning which does make it high maintenance and definitely a red wheelbarrow plant. Wisteria is vigorous and although it can be pruned to keep in size it still needs a large space. It may sound obvious, Wisteria is best planted in the right place from the outset. This is because it forms very strong, woody roots and is hard to remove once established.
Wisteria blooms (racemes) come in soft shades of violets, pink and white. Suggested good varieties are: Wisteria floribunda 'Multijuga' which has scented racemes up to 1m long and is an attractive lilac colour and with the RHS garden merit award A good pink variety is Wisteria floribunda 'Rosea' racemes up to 60cms long, scented and pale pink Wisteria floribunda 'Alba' is slightly less vigorous with white scented racemes up to 60cm and scented The traditional Wisteria sinensis has strong colour and fragrance. If you have a large space and are looking for a striking garden feature, I have seen Wisteria combined with Laburnum growing over an archway to create a tunnel of lilac and yellow. Laburnum, illustrated left has long trailing bright yellow flowers which look fabulous combined with Wisteria. Word of warning: Laburnum is poisonous and the seeds highly toxic so not a plant suitable for a garden access by pets or children.
How to Grow and prune wisteria video
How to make Wisteria flower
A frequent question to the web site, and problem, is why wisteria don't flower and the common causes are: too much shade, too fertile soil, sparrows eating the flower shoots, bad plant or lack of pruning. Wisteria do like sun and will not flower well in shady spots which is why it is often grown up a south facing wall. It is a member of the legume family, it does not need feeding generally speaking and will fix it's own nitrogen. Sparrows are partial to the buds but don't usually eat all of them so if your Wisteria does not flower the chances are it is either a poor plant or lack of pruning. Once established Wisteria is a vigorous, almost too vigorous, climbing plant with the most beautiful scented flowers in the spring.
Buy the Right Plant
Buy a Wisteria plant in the spring which is in flower or with flower buds on it whan you buy it and then at least you know it can flower. The image above left shows a small Wisteria newly planted with some small flowers on it. This Wisteria was newly planted in 2007 and within 7 years had reached a height of 3.5m or around 12ft and the little plant in the image above expanded in 7 years to the second image. This illustrated that Wisteria are vigorous and the taller it gets, the longer the ladders to prune it. Wisteria should be a grafted plant and you are likely to have problems with any plant grown from seed which maybe cheaper, but then if it never flowers it is worthless. If you buy in April or even later in Spring you can see the flowers and if it is capable of flowering, it's then down to pruning. When planting a new Wisteria water it well and ensure that it does not dry out. Once established it will be fine but to start with if there is a dry spell it will need watering. Grafted plants are more reliable when it comes to flowering, and often flower earlier. You can generally spot a grafted plant as there is a bulge in the stem just above soil level in the plant pot. Equally, the retailer should know and plants offered for sale are often stated to be grafted plants.
Grow in a sunny spot in full sun. Wisteria are fully hardy but the emerging flowers (racemes) can be damaged by frost so a more sheltered spot is best and traditionally against a south facing wall training the Wisteria to fan out across the wall. Wisteria are usually easy to establish, fast growing and need a lot of space, and time. Wisteria can be grown as a standard if space is limited which will involve careful pruning. If Wisteria is grown in a container it will need a lot of watering. Essentially Wisteria like it warm with plenty of watering.
Pruning is the key to making Wisteria flower
To make a wisteria flower it is essential to prune regularly twice a year; a winter prune in February and summer prune in July. If Wisteria is not pruned hard it will put energy into vigorous leaf growth at the expense of flowers, and so the Wisteria will not flower or produce less flowers. In addition, plants need to be trained horizontally as this aids flowering.
How to Prune Wisteria - Winter prune
Pruning Wisteria is often thought of as tricky but its helpful to know that Wisteria is a very vigorous climbing plant and you would be hard pushed to kill it by pruning or to stop it flowering, providing you prune at the right time which is February for the Winter prune and July/August for the summer. Avoid cutting into the hard wood main frame of the plant; in winter you are shortening the spurs and in summer removing leafy growth. The videos show how to prune in summer and winter. In some ways the winter prune is easier because you can see the framework of the Wisteria. Winter pruning is best done in February, on a mild day, and you will need ladders to access all of the plant. In the winter prune you need to cut the shoots back to 3/4 buds reducing to 8/10 cms (3-4") Aim to leave the main plant framework in place and prune the shoots coming off the main frame work to encourage the formation of spurs.
How to Prune Wisteria - Summer Prune
The summer pruning is just as essential and it is best to prune quite hard. The purpose of the summer prune is to restrict and cut back the vigorous growth so the plant will throw out flower shoots in the spring. Again, taking into account the main frame work, and where you want the plant to grow, cut back the long wippy (soft) growth to about 15cmc (6") Leave unpruned that which is needed for the frame work. You may need to cut off a lot of the long wippy growth, and also cut off all laterals which appear at the base of the plant. These are shoots being thrown out a the base and remove them all. .
Pruning twice per year is essential for flowering and as the plant grows its high maintenance, in both senses. Hard work and step ladders are needed
A final small point, Wisteria drop a lot of leaves in November and December which also takes some maintenance clearing them up.